Cody Howrigon

Restaurant Review

Intended Publication: The Index

North 11 Bistro and Brew has been offering a diverse range of menu options since it opened in 2003. Located on Gull Rd and only a ten minute drive from campus, North 11 is held to be one of the best places to dine by many in the Kalamazoo area. Terms like “fine dining” and promises such as “great food and service,” are often used to describe the establishment, as it serves as a primary destination for those looking to celebrate a special event or occasion.

Abundant with choices and hospitality it is, but fine dining it is not.

First impressions after walking into “North 11” can be summed up with one word - loud. Even on a night when the waiting area is of no use, the decibel level is on par with that of a middle school cafeteria. The seemingly unceasing, rapid-fire conversation is everywhere. This, combined with the collective ease at which the rambunctious patrons are eating, seems almost paradoxical.

Part of this is due to the open atmosphere. The restaurant is split into three sections. On one side is the bar, which appears to have undergone a facelift in recent years, as the decor seems to be more modern than the rest of the restaurant. The middle section is the main dining area, where I was seated, and is where the majority of the customers are located. The third section is essentially extra dining space, used for the overflow of dining patrons on weekends. The lack of big screen TVs on the walls are an indication of the kind of people that eat here - those looking for an experience centered more around quality food and conversation, rather than one focused on watching sports and eating “bar food.”

The menu’s great diversity of options ensures that there is something for everyone. Beef Burgundy Steak Tips, Pecan Encrusted Walleye, Bourbon Haystack Burgers, Personal Pizzas, Smothered Burritos, Spinach Wraps, Alfredo Pasta, Buffalo Chicken Salad and Open Faced Pesto Salmon, are among the many options offered.

The service isn’t perfect. What was supposed to be a short Jack and Coke - “half n’ half” - came out tall, weak, and a bit late. This was more of a minor distraction than a catastrophic mistake however, as the overall quality of service was generally satisfactory. The servers and bussers could be seen rushing from point A to point B at any time throughout the night, hurriedly taking orders and clearing tables with nothing but smiles on their faces.

The appetizers came out quickly - Prime Rib Bruschetta and Crab Rangoons - both of which I believe, make better people out of those who have them. The Bruschetta was presented on a large white plate, with all the slices of steak cut to approximately the same size, with garlic and feta sprinkled on top to decorate it nicely. This presentation will bring pleasure to any aesthetically savvy eye. So much so, that one might even feel shame for the prospect of actually eating it. The taste however was exquisite, and definitely worth enduring the sadness of ruining its beautiful display. The oval shaped crackers the strips of steak laid upon were the perfect level of moist, after having been soaked in burgundy reduction for precisely the right amount of time. The Crab Rangoons were also undoubtedly tasty, but less so than the Bruschetta. They are a mixture of crab, cream cheese and scallions, folded into a fried wonton dumpling that is close in size to a regulation-size softball. These delectable starters do a great job preparing the hungry patron for their entrée.

For any person who considers him or herself a true meat eater, the 12 oz. Prime Rib is a  worthy stop on your carnivorous voyage. The measure of all truly great steaks, is when they can be eaten without steak sauce and actually be enjoyed more. This is one of those steaks. It is typically cooked to a perfect light-red, medium-rare temperature, giving it the tender juiciness needed to be considered among the greats.

For those reading who tend to ignore or suppress their carnivorous heritage, and who instead eats nuts and greens exclusively, the Portobello Melt is a good choice. I am traditionally not a big fan of eating what I consider to be large hunks of fungus. In fact, I normally find it flat-out revolting. However, this was a different experience altogether. This was easily the best “hunk of fungus” I have ever tried, bar none. I not only tried this normally foreign dish, but I actually finished it. Any restaurant that can pull a complete 180 on someone like that has to be doing something right.

Although North 11 is not a place to go if you’re looking for a fine dining experience, it is a place to enjoy loud, energetic conversation with friends and family, while eating above average food in an above average atmosphere. The service is prone to mistakes as it is at most any restaurant, but they compensate for where they lack with raw effort and an upbeat attitude. The kitchen deserves all the praise they have been given and more. The food is sublime, and the presentation is artful. When dining at North 11, there is evidence everywhere for why they have survived for so long. The owners have made obvious efforts to reimagine their space, and they make good on their promise to provide personable service and high-quality food and drinks. Their strong historic track record combined with their current success makes their future look promising. North 11 is sure to be providing good food and loud laughs for many years to come.